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What Sells: Antiques & Silver

Silversmiths typically mark their products with a stamp (called a “hallmark”) on the underside of the product (or on the handle of flatware and utensils). A hallmark is nothing more than an indication of metal content, a guarantee of purity or quality, which may include a “maker’s mark” and other marks. Makers’ marks alone are not considered hallmarks. Hallmarks are most often found on precious metal objects. Hallmarks may be simple or elaborate and can contain information about the company, the individual maker and the item’s origin.

If you are concerned about authenticating a silver antique, you can contact the American Society of Appraisers. The American Society of Appraisers is a national organization of accredited appraisers with expertise in many different areas. To find an appraiser near you, visit their website at http://www.appraisers.org.

If a piece still has a label attached, do NOT remove it. It can help authenticate the piece or its purchase source. If asked for advice by a buyer on how to remove a label, an easy way to do this is to use a hair dryer to soften the label adhesive. The label should then come off cleanly. If there is a sticky residue left, use Elmer’s Sticky Out® to remove it.

Not all silver is sterling silver; some items are “silver-plated,” a technique that became popular in the 19th Century and is still used today. Silver-plating (also called “electroplating”) means that a very thin layer of pure silver has been layered on top of a base (non-precious) metal. Silver-plated items aren’t nearly as valuable as sterling, but it can be difficult to tell the two apart. Most sterling items have a mark that says either “sterling” or “925;” silver-plated items sometimes have a mark that says “silver-plate,” “EPC” (electroplated copper) or “EPNS” (electroplated nickel silver), but not always.

There are literally thousands of hallmarks, many of which are no longer used or have changed over the years. To help you identify an item, pick up a guidebook with pictures of hallmarks. Two good ones are Encyclopedia of American Silver Manufacturers by Dorothy Rainwater, and Miller’s Collecting Silver by Jill Bace.

There is also a growing online encyclopedia of silver marks, hallmarks, and maker’s marks. Visit the website at http://www.925-1000.com/enyc_Overview.html.

Replacements, Ltd. sells old and new silver, along with china, crystal and collectibles. Their website contains pictures of over 200,000 flatware patterns and is an excellent resource for research. Visit their website at http://www.replacements.com.

One of the best resources detailing how to care for and clean silver is the Society of American Silversmiths website located at http://www.silversmithing.com.

Look for the following signs of wear:

• Scuffs and scratches
• Dents
• Stains and corrosion (soaking the item in a mixture of hot vinegar and salt for a few minutes can help remove corrosion)
• Candle wax

Silver, like most precious metals, will scratch and chafe when used, washed or otherwise handled. Tiny silver scratches are unavoidable and it is the interlacing of these scratches that eventually give silver the soft, rich finish so characteristic of old silverware. This type of wear and tear is usually not of concern unless it is excessive or clearly out of proportion implying damage caused by something other than normal wear and tear due to ordinary use and handling.

Rubber severely affects silver by corroding it, and it can become so deeply etched that only a silversmith can repair the damage. Raised designs can be lost permanently. Ask the owner if silver items have been stored in cabinets or chests with rubber seals, rubber floor coverings, or held together with rubber bands.

Tarnish is caused by exposure to sulfur and can be removed with a commercial silver polish (don’t use toothpaste or abrasive cleaners, as they might damage the finish). Some collectors recommend wearing cotton gloves when handling your silver to protect it from oils in the skin; this will also prevent fingerprints when photographing silver. Latex gloves are not recommended, as they contain sulfur. Finally, don’t forget to remove rings and watches before handling or cleaning silver.

Never place silver in the dishwasher. The detergent, combined with a high cleaning temperature, is much too harsh. Factory-applied patina will eventually wear away, leaving a dull surface. And, silver that touches stainless steel flatware in the dishwasher can create a chemical reaction, producing black spots on the silver, and could require professional refinishing or re-oxidizing.

Candlesticks that are frequently used often build up a thick body of wax. Never try to remove the wax with a knife and do not put candlesticks in a freezer to remove the wax. Candlesticks are often made of more than one metal. If exposed to a dramatic change in temperature the metals might react at a different rate which can cause the candlestick to split apart. The temperature change can also loosen decoration that has been applied to the candlestick such as inlay, enamel or paint.

To remove wax, leave the candlesticks in a warm (but not hot) room to soften the wax or heat gently with a hair dryer set to medium or low versus hot. Using a soft cloth slowly and carefully remove the wax. Finally, if necessary, buff or polish with a soft cloth.

It isn’t necessary to remove tarnish or wax before selling an item; just make sure that the tarnish or wax doesn’t conceal details that should be visible in the photographs you provide of the item; i.e., make it difficult to read hallmarks or to detect damage your item might have sustained.

To prevent tarnish, silver should be stored with activated charcoal (preferably in paper form), which will absorb sulfur from the air. You can buy anti-tarnish strips made of 45 lbs. paper containing activated charcoal from manufacturers such as 3M. If possible, keep silver wrapped in soft cotton in an airtight container (a Ziplock bag is fine). Always wrap each piece of silver in soft cloth before placing it into a plastic bag. Plastic bags will scratch the finish on some silver pieces.

To prevent tarnish during shipping, wrap the piece in 100% cotton and store it in an airtight container or Ziplock bag. Wrap the bag or container with bubble wrap and place it in a bed of packing peanuts to cushion it during shipment. Make sure each individual piece in a multiple-item shipment is isolated from the other items in the box and from the sides of the box. Cardboard boxes that are not archival quality have acids that will tarnish silver. You might also consider using reinforced packing tape for added protection from damage or theft during transit.

Silversmiths typically mark their products with a stamp (called a “hallmark”) on the underside of the product (or on the handle of flatware and utensils). A hallmark is nothing more than an indication of metal content, a guarantee of purity or quality, which may include a “maker’s mark” and other marks. Makers’ marks alone are not considered hallmarks. Hallmarks are most often found on precious metal objects. Hallmarks may be simple or elaborate and can contain information about the company, the individual maker and the item’s origin.

If you are concerned about authenticating a silver antique, you can contact the American Society of Appraisers. The American Society of Appraisers is a national organization of accredited appraisers with expertise in many different areas. To find an appraiser near you, visit their website at http://www.appraisers.org.

If a piece still has a label attached, do NOT remove it. It can help authenticate the piece or its purchase source. If asked for advice by a buyer on how to remove a label, an easy way to do this is to use a hair dryer to soften the label adhesive. The label should then come off cleanly. If there is a sticky residue left, use Elmer’s Sticky Out® to remove it.

Not all silver is sterling silver; some items are “silver-plated,” a technique that became popular in the 19th Century and is still used today. Silver-plating (also called “electroplating”) means that a very thin layer of pure silver has been layered on top of a base (non-precious) metal. Silver-plated items aren’t nearly as valuable as sterling, but it can be difficult to tell the two apart. Most sterling items have a mark that says either “sterling” or “925;” silver-plated items sometimes have a mark that says “silver-plate,” “EPC” (electroplated copper) or “EPNS” (electroplated nickel silver), but not always.

There are literally thousands of hallmarks, many of which are no longer used or have changed over the years. To help you identify an item, pick up a guidebook with pictures of hallmarks. Two good ones are Encyclopedia of American Silver Manufacturers by Dorothy Rainwater, and Miller’s Collecting Silver by Jill Bace.

There is also a growing online encyclopedia of silver marks, hallmarks, and maker’s marks. Visit the website at http://www.925-1000.com/enyc_Overview.html.

Replacements, Ltd. sells old and new silver, along with china, crystal and collectibles. Their website contains pictures of over 200,000 flatware patterns and is an excellent resource for research. Visit their website at http://www.replacements.com.

One of the best resources detailing how to care for and clean silver is the Society of American Silversmiths website located at http://www.silversmithing.com.

Look for the following signs of wear:

• Scuffs and scratches
• Dents
• Stains and corrosion (soaking the item in a mixture of hot vinegar and salt for a few minutes can help remove corrosion)
• Candle wax

Silver, like most precious metals, will scratch and chafe when used, washed or otherwise handled. Tiny silver scratches are unavoidable and it is the interlacing of these scratches that eventually give silver the soft, rich finish so characteristic of old silverware. This type of wear and tear is usually not of concern unless it is excessive or clearly out of proportion implying damage caused by something other than normal wear and tear due to ordinary use and handling.

Rubber severely affects silver by corroding it, and it can become so deeply etched that only a silversmith can repair the damage. Raised designs can be lost permanently. Ask the owner if silver items have been stored in cabinets or chests with rubber seals, rubber floor coverings, or held together with rubber bands.

Tarnish is caused by exposure to sulfur and can be removed with a commercial silver polish (don’t use toothpaste or abrasive cleaners, as they might damage the finish). Some collectors recommend wearing cotton gloves when handling your silver to protect it from oils in the skin; this will also prevent fingerprints when photographing silver. Latex gloves are not recommended, as they contain sulfur. Finally, don’t forget to remove rings and watches before handling or cleaning silver.

Never place silver in the dishwasher. The detergent, combined with a high cleaning temperature, is much too harsh. Factory-applied patina will eventually wear away, leaving a dull surface. And, silver that touches stainless steel flatware in the dishwasher can create a chemical reaction, producing black spots on the silver, and could require professional refinishing or re-oxidizing.

Candlesticks that are frequently used often build up a thick body of wax. Never try to remove the wax with a knife and do not put candlesticks in a freezer to remove the wax. Candlesticks are often made of more than one metal. If exposed to a dramatic change in temperature the metals might react at a different rate which can cause the candlestick to split apart. The temperature change can also loosen decoration that has been applied to the candlestick such as inlay, enamel or paint.

To remove wax, leave the candlesticks in a warm (but not hot) room to soften the wax or heat gently with a hair dryer set to medium or low versus hot. Using a soft cloth slowly and carefully remove the wax. Finally, if necessary, buff or polish with a soft cloth.

It isn’t necessary to remove tarnish or wax before selling an item; just make sure that the tarnish or wax doesn’t conceal details that should be visible in the photographs you provide of the item; i.e., make it difficult to read hallmarks or to detect damage your item might have sustained.

To prevent tarnish, silver should be stored with activated charcoal (preferably in paper form), which will absorb sulfur from the air. You can buy anti-tarnish strips made of 45 lbs. paper containing activated charcoal from manufacturers such as 3M. If possible, keep silver wrapped in soft cotton in an airtight container (a Ziplock bag is fine). Always wrap each piece of silver in soft cloth before placing it into a plastic bag. Plastic bags will scratch the finish on some silver pieces.

To prevent tarnish during shipping, wrap the piece in 100% cotton and store it in an airtight container or Ziplock bag. Wrap the bag or container with bubble wrap and place it in a bed of packing peanuts to cushion it during shipment. Make sure each individual piece in a multiple-item shipment is isolated from the other items in the box and from the sides of the box. Cardboard boxes that are not archival quality have acids that will tarnish silver. You might also consider using reinforced packing tape for added protection from damage or theft during transit.